Range:             Karakoram

Altitude:             7027m

Zone:                   Open

Duration:           35 Days

Best Time:    June – End August

 A brief Introduction:

Spantik Peak is known by various names all depicting different aspects of its beauty and grandeur. The north western face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is also called “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski language means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers.

The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to within 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and huge plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the prominent South west spur.

Most recently Spantik (7027m) has been a favorite of climbers for training themselves for higher objectives. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some tough and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The view is absolutely breathtaking.

Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an excellent physical condition as well as regular practice are required to be on this expedition.

 Itinerary:

Day 01 Islamabad:

Arrival in Islamabad assist and transfer to hotel.

Day 02 Islamabad:

In the morning drive for Briefing.

Day 03 Skardu/Chilas Fly to Skardu:

Skardu/Chilas Fly to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive 12 by coach to on Karakoram Highway. Stay in hotel.

Day 04  Skardu:

Full day free at Skardu. If you are driving, complete road journey to Skardu

Day 05  Skardu:

Final preparations at Skardu. Overnight at hotel.

Day 06-10 Skardu – Arandu:

Drive Skardu to Arandu by Jeep and trek to BC.

Day 11-26     16 days for acclimatization and climbing.

Day 27-31 base Camp – Skardu:

Trekking and Return to Skardu.

Day 32  Skardu – Islamabad:

Fly to Islamabad (Subject to weather) In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel.

Day 33  Islamabad:

Full Leisure day aIslamabad.

In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.

Day 34 Islamabad:

Drive Islamabad for  debriefing .

Day 35  Islamabad:

Fly out. Transfer to airport for your return flight home.

 Services Included:

• Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for climbing permit process.
• Process of import/export permit from ministry of tourism.
• Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and its storage.
• Assistance upon arrival/departure.
• Official Briefing/Debriefing.
• Hotel accommodation in Rawalpindi/Islamabad, Chilas and Skardu.
• All meals during trek and at B.C. as per itinerary.
• Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C. and 50 kg per person on return from BC.
• Road transfers between airport/hotel and within city as per itinerary.
• Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess, kitchen and toilet tent with tables/field stools and camping ground fees.
• Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
• Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook and assistant(s).
• Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
• Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc.
• Mail handling/forwarding to BC/overseas except postage charges.
• Reconfirmation of air tickets.
• Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s) and any other crew as per requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team).

 Services not included:

• International & domestic airfare, airport tax, excess baggage charges.
• Surface transfers in case of flight cancellations to the kick off point.
• High altitude porters/any crew above BC.
• Tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp including high altitude food and oxygen.
• Medications, ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
• Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of personal nature.
• Insurance liability of member (s) and other under force majeure conditions.
• Climbing Permit, Pollution and Environmental fee or any other fee required to be paid to the Government of Pakistan.
• Clearing agent charges.
• Any other service not included in this list